Posts Tagged ‘art deco’

Wright’s coal tar soap in Eve magazine

March 24, 2015
Advert for Wright's Coal Tar Soap by Lilian Rowles on the back cover of Eve magazine

Advert for Wright’s Coal Tar Soap by Lilian Rowles on the back cover of Eve magazine

The illustrator Lilian Rowles painted this advert for Wright’s Coal Tar Soap, which appeared on the back cover of Eve magazine in 1924. Note the orange theme in the illustration, evoking the colour of the soap. Soap advertisers, especially Pears, were leaders in developing marketing techniques in the Victorian era and into the 20th century (think soap operas).

Eve magazine cover with a portrait of actress Sylvia Leslie (6 August  1924)

Eve magazine cover with a portrait of actress Sylvia Leslie (6 August 1924)

Eve described itself as ‘The Lady’s Pictorial’ and at this time had taken over The Woman’s Supplement from the Times newspaper. The cover here shows the stage actress Sylvia Leslie, who was appearing in The Street Singer, a musical by Frederick Lonsdale and Harold Fraser-Simpson that was running at the Lyric Theatre in London. In 1929, Eve, a weekly, itself merged with a current affairs weekly Britannia to become the monthly  Britannia and Eve, a title that was published until the mid-1950s.

The Sphere & Tatler company published the magazine from 172 The Strand and it was printed by Cornwall Press at 1-6 Paris Garden off Stamford Street (opposite what would become IPC’s King’s Reach tower in the 1970s) in the Southwark district of London. This printing works was not far from the Wright’s office at 44-48 Southwark Street (now ‘O ver, a pizza parlour) and the soap factory at 66-76 Park Street (now a training centre for the bank HSBC and just along from the site of the medieval Globe theatre, now a block of flats).

Miss Fish and her Eve drawings for Tatler

December 30, 2014
One of Miss Fish's drawings of Eve, from the popular Tatler column

One of Miss Fish’s drawings of Eve, from the popular Tatler column

One of the pleasures in writing a book about the history of magazines is discovering great talents that were household names a century or more ago but have since faded from the public gaze. One of those is Anne Harriet Fish. Miss Fish illustrated Tatler’s ‘Letters of Eve’ during the First World War and it was one of the most popular features of the magazine. The column started in May 1914 and was written by Olivia Maitland-Davidson with Anne Harriet Fish providing the drawings.

The witty, gossipy column of a society girl, like the rest of the magazine, had to alter its approach when Tatler suffered a considerable drop in sales at the outbreak of the war.

The Tatler was edited at the time by Edward Huskinson, himself a former cartoonist. He kept the magazine’s ‘light’ approach but aimed the humour at men in the armed forces and their families at home. The problem affected most publications – as demonstrated by circulation figures from the Financial Times, which saw its sales halve during 1914, from an average of 15,000 a day to 7,000. Tatler‘s owner, Clement Shorter, also owned the Sketch and another society weekly, the Bystander.

The Bystander changed its cover masthead to depict soldiers guarding the coast and then a man in uniform back at home in Blighty, rather than just society types sitting around chatting and reading.

Tatler Eve illustrator Anne Harriet Fish photographed in about 1915

Tatler Eve illustrator Anne Harriet Fish – Annie Fish – photographed in about 1915

Annie Fish’s unusual style created a ‘great vogue’ that was copied by designers of hats, coats and handkerchiefs; a play based a scene on a Fish drawing; a New Bond Street galley held an exhibition of her work; and a dozen short films used the drawings, with titles such as Eve Resolves to do War Work. The Eve illustrations were published as books, as were Maitland-Davidson’s columns.

The British Library lists 16 books written or illustrated by Fish, including Gilbert Frankau’s One of Us … With pictures by Fish (1917); The New Eve. Drawings by Fish written and designed by Fowl. Reproduced from … ‘The Tatler’ (1917); Rubáiyát of Omar Khayyám. Rendered into English verse by Edward Fitzgerald. With decorations by Fish (1922); Lipstick by Lady Vincent (1925); and All’s Well that Ends Swell. Auto suggestion for sensitive souls (1939).

Jazz Age dancers by AH Fish on the cover of Vanity fair, December 1927

Jazz Age dancers by AH Fish on the cover of Vanity fair, December 1927

Fish also worked for Vogue and did 30 covers portraying high society at play for Vanity Fair. These art deco style covers ran through the 1920s, depicting the bright young things, flappers and ballrooms full of elegantly dressed dancers in the Jazz Age.

In among the books above, Fish’s fame crossed the Atlantic, with a 1920 work of her drawings with text by American writers. It was published in New York with the title: High Society. The drawings by Fish. The prose precepts by Dorothy Parker, George S. Chappell, and Frank Crowninshiel. Condé Nast now owns both the Tatler and Vanity Fair.

One of the Condé Nast blogs by Shawn Waldron noted that the High Society book portrayed:

… a world populated by young-old matrons, astoundingly mature young girls, Victorian lady remnants, resplendent captains of industry, pussy-footing English butlers, amorous nursemaids, race touts, yearning young lovers, swanking soldiers, blank and vapid bores, bridge-playing parsons, and middle-class millionaires.

The blog also noted that the April 2010 issue of Vanity Fair carried a photograph of Hayley Bloomingdale, an American socialite, wearing a dress by designer Carolina Herrera portraying a print based on Fish’s drawings.

To see almost 500 magazine covers and pages, look out for my book, A History of British Magazine Design, from the Victoria & Albert Museum, the world’s leading museum of art and design


Design in Lisbon

October 25, 2011

Am in Lisbon at present – art deco Britania hotel. Great place. MUDE is a fantastic design museum too – in an old bank complete with Chubb vault with 3ft steel doors Like something outnof the Bank of England.