Archive for the ‘models’ Category

Goalen – the super model face of the 1950s

June 13, 2014
super model - mannequin - Barbara Goalen

Sunday Times Magazine celebrates the style of 1952, as personified by super model Barbara Goalen (30 January 1977)

Model – or rather ‘mannequin’ in the teminology of the day – Barbara Goalen was chosen by the Sunday Times Magazine as the personification of the style of 1952.

The issue marked changes in ‘Britain at Work’ over the 25 years since Queen Elizabeth’s coming to the throne in 1952 in an article titled ‘The New Elizabethans’ (30 January 1977).

In that year, Goalen had been part of a 40,000-mile world tour over four weeks to promote British fashions and exports.

Goalen was born on the first day of 1921 and died in 2002. She was renowned for her wasp waist and her aloof looks.  Her measurements were 33 inches (for her ‘charlies’ in her own words), 18-in waist and 31-in hips; she tipped the scales at under eight stones.

Goalen’s modelling face was marked by arched eyebrows and she was the ideal mannequin for Dior’s New Look – ‘mink and diamonds’.

Despite her international success, she would be the leading super model in today’s terms, Goalen gave up modelling in 1954 when she married Nigel Campbell, a Lloyd’s underwriter. In the 1960s, she gave out fashion advice in the pages of the Daily Telegraph.

The National Portrait Gallery has four  photographs of Goalen ranging from 1949 to 1952, by Norman Parkinson (one with Wenda Parkinson, Parks’ wife since 1947) and John French. A fourth image from Keystone Press shows Goalen next to a portrait of herself by James Proudfoot.

Barbara Goalen on the cover of the general interest weekly Illustrated in 1953

Barbara Goalen on the cover of the general interest weekly Illustrated (29 August 1953)

The cover of Illustrated here shows an image from the shoot chosen by the Sunday Times Magazine. (There is a certain irony here in that the advent of free Sunday supplements sparked by the Sunday Times, was a big factor in killing off the general interest weeklies such as Illustrated.) Illustrated headlines Goalen as modelling the ‘London Look’. Inside, two photographers are credited, Peter Waugh and David Olins. (Some websites have identified the photographer as Richard Avedon, but this seems unlikely.)

Illustrated rival Picture Post also featured Goalen cover on its cover in 1952, in this case with a photo by John French.

 

Coddington

November 28, 2012

Grace Coddington has a book out so the publicity interviews with US Vogue‘s model-turned-creative-director have been all over the supplements.  The Observer Magazine has an interview by Eva Wiseman, while Janet Maslin provides for the New York Times. But they diverge on the facts. Wiseman writes:

‘While Wintour is painted as a terrifying ice queen … Coddington never wears make-up…’

Maslin writes:

‘Abruptly she mentions the ghastly car accident that severed one of her eyelids. The injury was miraculously repaired, but it sidelined her for a while and pushed her to affect dark and heavy eye makeup. Today, still a provocateur who prefers extremes to the dull middle, she lightens the area around her eye sockets to achieve what she calls “that pale, bald Renaissance look.” It’s a look that sends a spooky message to the conventional beauty world.’

Take a look at the Observer photographs by Danielle Levitt or the many other profiles and see who you believe.

Julie Kavanagh’s 2011 profile in Intelligent Life is a much closer portrait, but then Kavanagh was her assistant in the 1970s.

Also, Vogue has put up a Coddington timeline, videos of interviews and an excerpt from the book and shows Coddington as the model for Vidal Sassoon’s Five Point Cut.

Vogue profile

 

 

Madonna on Vogue covers

April 30, 2012

Been hammering away on the book I’m writing about the history of magazine design and looking through some old Vogue covers. How’s this for the first cover (May 1989) of Madonna in the US edition:

vogue 1989 may madonna us first

Anna Wintour was told this Madonna cover would not sell

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Fashion Indie notes that editor Anna Wintour says she was told ‘[Madonna]’ll never sell’, but, in fact, newsstand sales rose 40%. Strange that Wintour hadn’t checked with Liz Tilberis, her successor at the British sister magazine – ‘Brogue’ – which had run this cover in February:

Vogue front cover Madonna

British Vogue beat the US edition in having a Madonna front cover four months earlier

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The first cover under Liz Tilberis was of Naomi Campbell – her first appearance on the front of Vogue.

History of women’s glossies

British Vogue cover archive - search on date, model, photographer or editor, but not all covers are up

Family life at Dazed & Confused

November 3, 2011

There was a pivotal moment this morning as Dazed & Confused founder Jefferson Hack and Emma Reeves were showing me round the Somerset House exhibition of the book celebrating 20 years of the magazine. Reeves was reeling off the names of celebrity portaits by Rankin (the magazine’s other founder – they met at the London College of Printing): ‘Michael Stipe … Beth Ditto…’. Then Hack breaks in ‘… and Kate’.

He meant Kate Moss, of course, his former partner and mother of their daughter. Moss is the face on the exhibition’s publicity and the cover of the Rizzoli book. The tour changed then. It was no longer just about a great magazine with images and ideas from  many of the greatest illustrators, styists and photographers of the past two decades (though the names drop thick and fast, Bjork, Taylor-Wood, Coldplay, Hirst, the Chapmans, throughout the exhibition). Instead, it was about family. And philosophy and technology.

Both Reeves and Hack talked of the magazine’s staff and contributors as family. And there are two rooms celebrating a lost member of that family: Alexander McQueen. The fashion designer and couturier hanged himself in February 2010 a week after his mother died.

I asked Hack what was the best-selling issue. He responded not with numbers, but the fact that the Fashion-Able cover (September 1998) is the most requested back issue. This led us into room 5 of the exhibition where Nick Knight’s fashion portraits of men and women without legs, or arms, are projected on three large screens – the shoot was the idea of McQueen with styling by Katy England. It is a great cover – a model, who on first glance could be Kate Moss, with prosthetic legs. Arresting.

‘That was the point were the magazine grew up,’ said Hack, taking us into the room. ‘With that issue we were on page two or three of the world’s newspapers. We realised that you didn’t have to be the best-selling magazine to have an influence on culture. That has been our philosophy ever since.’

Getting editors to talk about philosophy can be difficult; for many it is too ethereal, even sounding pretentious. But the best magazines have one. The Economist has a page on its philosophy: ‘We are international, we stress the links between politics and business, we are irreverent and we are independent,’ says John Micklethwait, editor-in-chief. Mike Soutar had a ‘mantra’ in 1997 at FHM – ‘funny, sexy, useful’. US satirical monthly Spy was ‘smart, funny, fearless’.

Many magazines have a family feel. Take Sir Luke Fildes, who was illustrating The Mystery of Edwin Drood when Dickens died half way through the monthly serial being written:

‘… at the request of the family, who wished me to fulfil the desire of the great writer, they asked me after the funeral to come and stay with them, and it was then, while in the house of mourning, I conceived the idea of ‘The Empty Chair,’ and at once got my colours from London, and, with their permission, made the water-colour drawing a very faithful record of his library; and stayed with them until they left the house prior to the sale.’

Woman’s weeklies have long talked about a family of staff and contributors, so Woman’s Own in the 1950s would discuss the lives of its writers and artists – showing a photograph of cover artist Aubrey Rix with his new baby for example, and discussing the roles and lives of young members of staff. And the promotion of the royal family in this era was a boon to magazine sales.

As for technology, Hack described a software installation by Nick Knight as ‘an app ten years ago’. Run your finger across the image to reveal layers of other images underneath. The software was developed for manipulating images – as in Knight’s cover for the Yohji Yamamoto exhibition for the V&A catalogue. And Reeves identified a watershed – eight years ago – for the switch to digital imaging at Dazed. Going back beyond then was ‘a nightmare’, she said. After that, the illustrators and photographers had digital archives of their work. Before then, ‘I’d end up at their mum’s house with a box in the garage.’

The free exhibition 20 Years of Dazed & Confused Magazine opens at Somerset House in London tomorrow. You can buy the Rizzoli book - a hefty 300-plus pages for £35 with more pictures than you can shake a stick at – at the exhibition or from the Dazed website.

Eat and drink nearby: American Bar at the Savoy; Gordon’s Wine Bar by Embankment Tube; and The India Club on the Strand.

Photoshop, friend or foe?: Digital manipulation and magazine covers

December 1, 2010
Kate Winslet stretched for  GQ cover

Kate Winslet stretched for GQ cover. 'We were thrilled,' said editor Dylan Jones

There’s a big divide in opinion when it comes to playing about with images in Photoshop. For newspaper editors – and many magazines – it’s a no-no, because it can undermine the trust of readers (it certainly caused a stink for the Economist in the US). However, it’s an essential tool for the big fashion magazines such as Tatler and GQ, both of which have run into controversy in recent years, over Princess Eugenie and Kate Winslet respectively.

Similarly for photographers, with Nick Knight in one corner:

‘Originally, photography was seen as a better recorder of truth than painting – that’s why it became popular. It’s taken us 100 years to realise that is not the case and neither should we want it to be.’

and rival fashion photographer Juergen Teller in the other:

‘[retouched images is] not what I find beautiful. Beauty advertisers change everything and it doesn’t do any good for the psyche of a woman’

Magforum has now launched a dozen or more pages setting out the pros and cons of Digital manipulation of photographs. Where do you stand? And what effect will digital magazines on the iPad and other tablets have?

Pearls of wisdom from Country Life

October 18, 2010

 

Typical Country Life cover in 1963

Typical Country Life cover in 1963

 

There has been a steady stream of TV programmes that feature magazines in recent years, from Jackie to The Lady, from Marie Claire to Front. They are rarely about the magazines themselves, but the working environment is a great background to the goings-on in what is presented as a rather bitchy world.

Next to hit the fan airwaves is BBC2′s High Society Brides (Wednesday, 20 October 9pm), which examines 50 years of the ‘girls in pearls’ page from Country Life (which was founded by Edward Hudson as Country Life Illustrated in 1897). The programme tracks five society debutantes from this page, which is the first editorial after the initial run of house-for-sale adverts. It comes across as Page Three for aristos, or ‘the girls for sale page’ as Miss October 1960 puts it.

It was all done  ‘with the expectation to find a good husband and get married’ and one girl had been ‘sent off to Lucy Clayton [a finishing school/modelling agency whose alumi include former Avenger and Gurkha activist  Joanna Lumley] to be tidied up and taught how to get in and out of a sports car without showing my knickers’.

Country Life has taken to campaigning in recent years, railing against officialdom discouraging children from playing with conkers or touching livestock. A 2008 manifesto called on the government and public to support 10 points:

  1. Give children more freedom
  2. Label food by county of origin
  3. Eat a rare breed
  4. Reduce Britain’s deer population by 30%
  5. Drink English ‘champagne’
  6. Clean up our verges
  7. Learn to love GM crops
  8. Only eat ethically produced chicken
  9. Save protected rural areas from flight paths
  10. Plant a tree

Best watched with a glass of port after Downton Abbey.

Naomi Campbell in war crimes probe

May 20, 2010

Who would have thought it? That Naomi Campbell, stalwart of Vogue and fashion magazines around the world, could be summoned before a war crimes tribunal over allegations she received a ‘blood diamond’ from Liberia’s former president Charles Taylor, says the Telegraph.Naomi Campbell on cover of Vogue December 1987

The real Wintour hits the big screen

August 24, 2009

Anna Wintour - chilly terror at Gawker

Anna Wintour – chilly terror at Gawker

The September Issue, a fly-on-the-wall documentary by R.J. Cutler about Anna Wintour, legendary British editor-in-chief of US Vogue, opens in New York on Friday.

Earlier this year, the talk was that she could be on the way out as Vogue sales fell, so this looks like a feisty riposte from the woman who inspired The Devil Wears Prada.

Gawker is already talking of the ‘chilly terror’ of the film’s ringtone!

The film had its premiere last week.

Poster protests against digital retouching

January 14, 2009
Adbusting at Fubiz

Adbusting at Fubiz

Protestors have been bringing attention to the digital retouching of models by plastering posters with massive printouts of menus from Photoshop. See Fubiz - it’s in French but the photos say it all.

Look’s passion for fashion

December 11, 2008

Look, spring 2009

Look, spring 2009

Look New York magazine has had some fun on the catwalks with models tottering on killer shoes; playful photos of fashion show brackdrops from Alexander McQueen and Stella McCartney; models before and after their make-up; and its view on a perennial topic – the relationship between fashion and the economy. More pictures

Dinos and Jake Chapman did the backdrop for Stella McCartney in Paris

Dinos and Jake Chapman did the backdrop for Stella McCartney in Paris

More pictures


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